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The map gives some idea of the extent of the area |
Black Down
Southern England may be one of the most populated places on
the planet but it is easy to find plenty of quiet spots with miles of
countryside all to yourself. Sussex and Kent form a great bowl bordered by the
North and South Downs and filled with the delights of the Weald, but in that bowl are
numerous ridges and pockets of high ground that sit up like giant lumps of cereal. One
such area is Black Down.
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View out over the Weald |
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The slopes of Black Down |
Black Down is a popular Sussex beauty spot that Lord
Tennyson loved so much that he decided to get a house here to get away from day
trippers on the Isle of Wight where he lived. You can understand why he liked
it because it is the highest spot in Sussex and also in the South Downs
National Park (919ft) and sits like a great mound just south of Haslemere, with
fantastic views all round towards Leith Hill, the North and South Downs, and of
course the Sussex Weald. ill Sussex
is the most mature and tame of landscapes and Black Down is about as wild as it
gets round these parts, which isn’t very, and shares the same features as other well known
southern beauty spots such as Ashdown Forest with its open heathland and scattered woodland. In fact it’s like a
much hillier Ashdown Forest, crossed by winding and switchback little lanes
swinging between banks of trees and undulating countryside.
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The Weald from Black Down |
You can access Black Down directly from Haslemere town
centre by following the little lanes south up from the main street. This takes you up
to Tennyson Ridge and Tennyson Lane. Take the Lane and the road heads upwards
in a pretty straight trajectory past some rather large ‘stockbroker’ type
houses to end up at a series of car parks at the top where the highest points
of Black Down can be easily accessed. There’s lots of sandy paths through the woodland and
heath, but in the winter you do need boots as the mud and puddle mix does mount
up.
You can do a ‘circular’ route which takes you south to the
Temple of the Winds which sounds like a place where you will meet assorted time
lords doing funny wizardy things with staffs and the odd Gollam scurrying through the
undergrowth. In fact it is a splendid viewpoint looking out over the Sussex
Weald and across to such iconic spots as Ditchling Beacon, Chanctonbury Ring
and Devil’s Dyke. Here there is a topograph (bet you’ve never heard of that!),
one of those steel direction pointers that indicates direction of well known
landmarks and how many miles away they are .
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Woodland on Black Down |
If you swing round to the west from here you can follow the
slopes of Black Down along a well marked path which follows the contours and enjoy the more rolling countryside
but still expansive views out to the west. Whereas trees hide the horizon to
the west when approaching the Temple of the Winds, here the views out to the
west are uninterrupted and more treeless heathland. Keep going and the path
takes you back into the woodland and then back to the car park.
Haslemere is an ideal place to find respite after a bracing walk on Black Down, although it is a tad well heeled (definite beige handbag area) so be prepared for any steep prices. Actualy it has a little museum in the town centre with quite an interesting section on Black Down. Visiting this museum was the first time I became aware of the famous local beauty spot.
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Black Down at dusk |
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