Southern Italy

Southern Italy
Herculaneum mosaic

Sunday, 15 December 2013



The Seven Sisters

For another super duper helter skelter, big time up and down sort of walk get yourself out to the Seven Sisters Country Park just a few miles west of Beachy Head and give your boots another workout. The Seven Sisters has been voted the UK's best walk by none other than Walking Magazine, that stalwart of the rambling fraternity that regularly appears in W.H. Smiths and supermarkets up and down the land. It should know a thing or two about walking, as the magazine is a feast of fine photos of gorgeous scenery the length and breadth of the UK and how to negotiate it on two feet.

Looking east from Cuckmere


Western end of Seven Sisters

The Seven Sisters is larger than life white cliff scenery on a magnificent scale that brings to mind that 'sceptred isle set in a silver sea' scenario, as well as invoking 'white cliffs of Dover' type feelings of how these extremities of our doughty island were there ready to protect us against the Nazi hordes.

Looking west towards Brighton


How do you get to this great spot for a serious hike. Take the coast road either east from Brighton or west from Eastbourne and you get to the Cuckmere Valley that cuts through the adjoining South Downs National Park via cute and cosy tea shop laden Alfriston to the English Channel. Park up at the National Trust Car Park at Cuckmere (conveniently providing spaces on both sides of the main road) and then take the very well laid tarmacked path towards the sea, tracing the winding ox bow type Cuckmere River as it prepares to disgorge itself into the ocean. You can be a little more adventurous and go off the main path as there are alternative routes, but still the same destination, the expansive pebbled beach that lies at the western end of the Seven Sisters. Where the river cuts into the sea is a narrow channel which prevents you from crossing over to the western end of the same beach. It's worth walking along the bottom of the cliffs from the beach for a while to admire the scale of this natural wonder.



The Stately Sisters looking east


Otherwise you can ascend the first cliff for an exhilarating switchback journey to Birling Gap, the next clear break in the cliffs a few miles to the east, and a restful interlude before the massiveness of Beachy Head beyond. Once you get to the top of the first cliff, you can begin to admire the sheer scale of this natural phenomenon, miles of undulating coastal cliff that lies along the English Channel like a giant anaconda that is just absorbing its prey along its pulsating length. The paths are well worn and plentiful where thousands of feet have pummelled the grass down every slope and up over every lip, or stood in groups to have their photos taken against the backdrop of the sea pounding the cliffs far below. But don't get too near the edge. These are cliffs on a grand scale with an eye-wateringly huge descent to the rocks below.

Up and down along the cliff tops


Big views is what this area is all about, so a camera is a must, and surely it is difficult to beat a real blue sky day to get the very best out of the far flung sea and landscapes which provide such a feast to the eye.



When you return after  a few hours yomping along the edge of southern Britain, you can partake of refreshments at the cafĂ© in the gaggle of buildings alongside the car park, knowing a great day's walking work has been done.

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